Thursday, 18 September 2014

Fred Perry presents 'Subculture' (2012) Director Don Letts

Fred Perry presents 'Subculture' (2012) Director Don Letts

6 ten minute films - Fred Perry, a key figure of the Mod subculture

"possibly the most prevalent subculture of nowadays is possibly the 'Hipster'"

Meaningless things

Consumerism 

No challenges 

Subcultures first established after the war

Rock and roll - Early 50s. Movies started this eg. Rebel without a cause, Teenagers from outer space. Marlon Brando - The wild one

Teddy boys - Youth culture (Juvenile delinquents), First time Men began caring about their looks etc
Draped jacket, Posh shoes. Waist coat, "every opportunity to accessorize was taken. Edwardian.


"what could you work with if you didn't have money or education - You could work with the music system"

"The got good at trousers"

political stand point of the teddy boys - conservative, badly racist.

(absolute beginners, Nottinghill riots)

Rockers at the same time as the teddy boys.

Leather jackets, Utilitarian clothes (Marlon Brando), Bikes, fighting (american culture but Englisized) BSA bike. 

Media is fundamental for subcultures as the culture pick up fashion ideas from people they've never met.

"fear aspect of subcultures is very useful as people don't understand their stand points but do it anyway"

Mods and rockers fighting at Brighton.

Each youth culture has a sensational element that the media jump on

Essence is that the cultures are elitist 

British did the best at exploiting subcultures due to it being an island.

Fred Perry

Paul weller, Damen Auban

Amy Winehouse range

We are modernists (stylists)

oct 14th 1957

Vesper - european movis

bum jacket

"finding your tribe through style"

Mod is started by men, Male led things.

Male fashion - Mascara, eyeliner, walking cane, limp wrist (camp)

David bowie, Mark bowlan - looking androgenous

1966 Tiles Club-9 Oxford street

Amphetamine - drug culture

"Ready stead go" Tv show. 'Your weekend starts here (more modern than top of the pops)

British like to be tribal and like to go to war - Hench the fighting 

1st, 2nd, 3rd waves of Mod

The Who and small faces becoming corrupted 

Hippies began - Psychedelic branch of Mods

Skin heads branched off Mods - Refusal basis

Mod isnt extreme 

"Fred Perry shirt is a pinacle of design - Simple yet complex"

Multiculturalism was always going to take route firmly in Britain due to Britain's past

Rude boy culture 

Bands such as the specials, Genres such as Mento and Scar

Skin heads

Working class kids, Early set of mods.

Younger brothers of mods

Hard no surrender, militant working class mods

Cool, underground, subversive things

Hardly anyone knew about them for a while then it exploded

No racism from skinheads, Happy in their subculture. They knew they were cool

Style, musical thing

Brought Black people and white people together

Skin head look came out of American Ivy league 

Hair cut short because they loved astronaut haircuts

Scar music and reggae 

"Can inspire moral panic" 

Swailers became once skin heads were publicised but it all died down by end of 60s

Skin head revival in the 70s - Became more of an Hitler youth, Salutes and such

Left wing skin heads, right wing skin heads and just general skin heads

Soul boy

Related to Mods

Northern soul

Soul boy in the south, Different types of people

Blue and soul book

Black echos

Russ Winstantly

Wigan, Pilgrimage. Casino all nighter

 "you had to go to it, not it to you"

Southern soul

Black people were finding more courage to express themselves through fashion

"we love these clothes, we're gonna wear them if we can afford them, we'll get the money some how"

Essex and Kent - Separate soul scene - Jazz funk

Chris Hill + Froggy

Very multiracial

Rave scene

Warehouse parties

1970s

House, club culture

Punk

"I want to scare people"

David bowie

Art school - Post modernist idea

Malcolm Maclaren

Every colour had a reason and context behind it. Red white black, shocking pink etc

Montage of all that has gone before it
'Safety pins and spittle'

Didactic

DIY Punk

Women bands - The slits

Johnny rotten

Feminist ideas were acted out

Punk came out of subcultures who adored reggae etc

"Ya Yabby yabby yo, chant the rebel sounds"

'Togetherness of the outsider'

Sex pistols

Filth and the Fury

Ended after that

Extreme end of it all ended and it became perceived as a pantomime

Literature, Art fashion

Steve Jones

The specials

The clash

Solidarity between young blacks and young whites growing up on london council estates

The specials summarised the UK

Thatcher

Two Tone - Masks, skin heads and rude boys


The  beaten generation

"my dog sleeps on Fila (Sports brand)"

Coventry boys

Casuals

Movement led by fashion and football

Liverpool - dominant football team

81- late 80s

Party, music and Ecstasy

Acid house

Monday night raves

Football hooligan was dead due to drugs

Replaced by Ravers

Ravers

Acid house, Manchester

Sound, light and pharmacy

Chicago and New york music based

Miners strikers

Rave killed kids 'dressing up'

Babies dummies

Jungle music

Rave could be the end of all cultures

90s

Brit pop

Possibly last definable culture

Retro enthusiasts

Backwards looking

Guitar anddrum ethic

Rock edge




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